La Taberna de Baco
This bright, modern bar is a great spot to try seasonal, market-fresh tapas like heirloom tomato salad with chilies and raw onion or cheesy mushroom "carpaccio," but locals flock here for one dish in particular: oreja a la plancha, griddled pig's ear swimming in punchy brava (spicy) sauce. Shatteringly crisp and unapologetically rich, it's one of the best versions you'll have in Spain.