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The Midlands town of Birr may be known as the "belly button of Ireland" because of its central location, not because this region is regarded as one of the cuisine centers of Ireland. No matter that Ireland's best restaurant (according to some)—Neven Maguire's MacNean's, near Cavan town—is in the Midlands, nor the fact that the region is also home to Wineport Lodge, Ireland's first "wine hotel," you'll find that most restaurants here are simple eateries, ranging in price from inexpensive to moderate.
Nevertheless, there are those restaurants that will entice you right in off the street, especially those offering beef—Mullingar, in the center of the Midlands, is the beef capital of Ireland—and fish specialties, as the many lakes and rivers of the region provide an abundance of fresh salmon and trout (in fact, since no place is more than an hour and a half from the sea, expect to find lots of fresh ocean fish).
A tempting array of both savory and sweet delights are on display at this central daytime café and deli counter. Nourishing soups at lunchtime, such as colcannon (cabbage and potato) or mushroom come with freshly baked brown bread. Other breads, including ciabatta, bagels, or panini wraps are filled with cured meats or cajun chicken and salad, while a selection of fruit and gluten-free scones deserve to be smothered with delicious raspberry jam.
In the center of town, Flynn's is worth visiting to appreciate its light and spacious Victorian-style design. The lunch menu includes sandwiches, salad platters, and dishes such as red Thai curry, chicken Milanese, or Irish lamb stew. It's worth saving space for the renowned apple pie.
"Lovage at the Gate Lodge," as it's known locally, overlooks the river and serves the best coffee in town. Pastries, wraps, baps, and burgers are common on the menu, but make sure to check the blackboard for daily specials.
Many regard this as the leading Thai restaurant in the Midlands, if not all of Ireland. Adam Lyons runs a slick first-floor operation in a 650-year-old building on the west bank where the extensive menu features dishes from the Isaan region of northeast Thailand, including the Crying Tiger (grilled fillet of beef on a sizzling hot platter with a hot chili sauce). Typical dishes include the signature steamed chicken curry while others come with beef, lamb shank, duck, and pork served with jasmine rice. It also serves a range of fish and vegetarian dishes. Main courses from €17. Ceiling fans and balloon bamboo lights help create the perfect gastronomic scene—it's not hard to imagine yourself in Chiang Mai.
Keep the water jug handy as the smooth richness of coconut milk doesn't offset this fiery food.
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