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Traditionally, Corfiots tend to eat their main meal at midday, with simpler food in the evening. Though meat is eaten much more frequently these days, meals at home feature casseroles bulked out with lots of vegetables, such as the winter favorite fassoulada, a thick bean soup. Unless they cater to the local lunchtime trade, tavernas tend not to serve these home-style dishes, but prefer generic Greek dishes like moussaka and stifado (beef or rabbit cooked in a spicy sauce with small onions), plus the great Sunday-lunch and holiday dishes of the island, pastitsada (beef or rooster in a spicy tomato sauce served with pasta) and sofrito (beef casserole with garlic and parsley), or the third great dish of Corfiot cooking, bourdetto (fish cooked in paprika, sometimes curry-hot). In the island's resorts, tavernas will also offer grills (such as pork chops and steaks), plus omelets and (invariably frozen) pizzas. Your main courses should be preceded by a variety of dips and small salads, and perhaps some keftedes (meatballs), which you all share.
Corfiot restaurants usually take the form of psistaria, or grillrooms, where all the meat is cooked on charcoal. Most of these places also run a takeaway service, so you'll eat in the company of neighborhood families waiting in line for souvlaki, whole spit-roasted chicken, or lamb chops. The most economical choice here is pita: a wrap enclosing meat, french fries, salad, tzatziki, and sauce. Desserts are not a strong suit on Corfu, although many love karidopitta—walnut cake drenched in syrup. Locals head to a zacharoplasteio (patisserie) for a creamy cake, some baklava or galaktoboureko (custard pie). In summer, the last port of call is the gelatopoleio (ice-cream parlor). Corfu produces wines mainly from Skopelitiko and Kakotrigis grapes, all drinkable and many excellent. Most tavernas have their own house wine, served in carafes or jugs, and usually this is a good choice. Bottled water can be bought everywhere—Corfu's salty tap water is not one of its pleasures. Kali oreksi! (Bon appetit!)
Both local and international dishes are on the menu at this long-established and casually elegant restaurant on the Liston arcade. Start with a plate of steamed mussels or a salad, then move on to hearty Greek and Corfiot classics. Spicy bourdetto (fish stewed with hot red pepper) and braised lamb shanks in red wine are usually on the menu. Drinks and sweets are served from midnight to 2 am.
Everyone—not just sailors—will appreciate the spectacular location of this classy restaurant, tucked under the northern wall of the Venetian-era Old Fortress beside the yacht club harbor. The food is Greek but offers twists on traditional concepts, such as a cheese pie topped with honey, in a dish straight out of ancient times. Dishes from all over Greece include Santorini-style fava dip and a salad featuring local nouboulo ham (made from pork loin in a style similar to prosciutto) and the Greek version of ricotta.
The Botrini family restaurant is considered one of the best in Greece (the Athens branch has a Michelin star), and it certainly can be classed as among the most inventive, offering a menu of Italian- and Greek-inspired dishes. Chef Ettore Botrini demonstrates his flawless technique with a big blast of creativity on the molecular gastronomy front. You know dinner will be a marvel when the amuse bouche arrives, followed by appetizers such as carpaccio of octopus or swordfish, feta cheese "snow" and risotto with turmeric and sea urchin. A main course choice might be a variation of Corfu Tsigarelli (a dish with greens, onions, and tomatoes), or maybe slow-cooked belly pork with Granny Smith apple puree. Rounding out the experience is the cozy and modern decor, with the best tables—often booked solid with chic and wealthy Corfiots—set out in a large and charmingly antique courtyard. Just save your pennies and make your reservations now.
This famous taverna (touristy but very quaint) in the charming hill village of Kinopiastes has been in business since 1936 and is still run by the same family. The fixed-price menu includes all the food and wine. It begins with an endless series of small meze plates, followed by a main course (usually spit-roasted lamb), and concludes with a selection of local and exotic fruits and desserts. Toward the end of the meal, the live music and Greek dancing begin; patrons are encouraged to join in. The floor show does not take place every night, so ask about the schedule when you call to book. The famous clientele have included Jimmy Carter, Anthony Quinn, and Jane Fonda.
The scene is as delicious as the food in this wonderfully romantic restaurant arranged around a 17th-century well on the most beautiful little square in the Old Town. Expect creative Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, with a menu that changes regularly according to the availability of the always fresh ingredients. You will encounter unusual pastas, imaginative salads, and standout dishes such as a tart with caramelized onions, mushrooms, and goat cheese; and slow-cooked veal cheeks with ginger, lemongrass, and honey. Accompany your meal with one of the single-estate Greek wines, or choose one of the selected global vintages. Kremasti Square is difficult to find, so be sure to get very specific directions from your hotel, or once in the Old Town ask directions from a local. Reservations are essential.
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