Right in the heart of the Old City is the Alter Markt, the old marketplace and former center of secular life in the city. The square is lined with 17th-century, middle-class houses, colorfully hued in shades of pink, pale blue, and yellow ocher. Look in at the old royal pharmacy, the Hofapotheke, whose ornate black-and-gold Rococo interior was built in 1760. Inside, the curious apothecarial smell can be traced to the shelves of Latin-labeled pots and jars. The pharmacy is still operating today and you can even have your blood pressure taken—but preferably not after drinking a Doppelter Einspänner (black coffee with whipped cream, served in a glass) in the famous Café Tomaselli just opposite. In warm weather, the café's terrace provides a wonderful spot for watching the world go by as you sip a Melange (another coffee specialty, served with frothy milk), as does the chestnut tree-shaded Tomaselli garden at the top of the square.
Next to the coffeehouse you'll find the smallest house in Salzburg; note the slanting roof decorated with a dragon gargoyle. In the center of the square is the marble St. Florian's Fountain, dedicated in 1734 to the patron saint of firefighters.