Agios Nikoloas and the North

The northern half of Zakynthos is day-trip country. Resorts on the east coast of the island pitter out above Alikes Beach, and to the west there's little but a series of wild beaches and quiet, pretty mountain villages and monasteries. Few explore this rocky corner except to peer over the viewpoint at Shipwreck Beach. It's here that those longing to escape the loud beach bars and convoys of ATVs should head.

Take time to stop by the hilltop villages of Exo Chora and Kiliomenos, which are said to have escaped much of the damage of the 1953 earthquakes. Their scattering of old buildings and churches dating back to the 17th century offer rare glimpses of how the island used to look before it took the tourist dollar. In between are verdant forests of cypress, pine, oak, and olive trees. It really is another world.

Up in the north-east, things get a little busier. Here you'll encounter Cape Skinari, from where dozens of small boats skim to the white arches and twinkling waters of the Blue Caves. The coast here is rocky and impressive as it narrows to the tip. Nearby, the small, anonymous port town of Agios Nikolaos is where ferries run to and from Kefalonia, making this the first sight of the island for many day-trippers. There's not much to see here but you'll find a few decent tavernas hidden in the outskirts.

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